I am back (on Blogger)!!! At least temporarily and just in order to share a little bit of a horror story. Ok, so that is an exaggeration but oftentimes the worries during solo ultra-distance adventures can make the trip seem quite epic and at least a little horrific. In this case the adventure unfortunately, became an epic DNF (Did Not Finish).
About three weekends ago (July 12th) I signed up for the
Ultrapedestrian Wilderness Challenge and set out to complete the Grand Tour route of the Alpine Lakes Challenge (
Facebook group - discussion here). Since I am in the midst of training for a lifetime goal race and the weather was especially nice that weekend I thought, why not give it a try. Plus, I reasoned since I love the Alpine Lakes and the route is such a great 'Grand Traverse' of some of the best parts, I really will have to do it someday. Why not today?!?
Please see the route description by Eric Sach on the Facebook page (And Thanks Eric for such an awesome route). In short, the route runs roughly east-west or vice-versa from the Snow Lake trailhead near Snoqualmie Pass to the Snow Lakes trailhead near Leavenworth. There are only two road crossings (drivable - open roads) and they are both dirt/gravel and usually not in the best shape (Thanks U.S. Forest Circus). The reported distance is around 75 miles. When I measured it using a Topo software program it came out around 78 miles, but of course this is not truly accurate. Besides when it comes to ultra-distance adventures we all know it is not always the miles which make the difference. It is sometimes the smiles, frowns, spiritual funks, ups and downs and climbing around which can make or break the traveler.
So with guaranteed help from my girlfriend and best running partner, Broeck Jones, I set out around 7:30AM on 7/12 from the Snow Lake trailhead (Snoqualmie Pass). Broeck was gracious enough to give me a ride to the start and then she planned to meet me later that evening at the Eightmile trailhead near Leavenworth. We were optimistically hoping that I would get there in the later evening hours and maybe she would be able to accompany me through the Enchantments for the last 18 to 20 miles or so.
The hike/run up and over to Snow Lake was of course easy, but in retrospect it was hot! I had no idea how hot it was but I was dripping sweat and it was still early. I dropped down into the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River Valley and became excited since I was on a lesser used trail which I had never been on. The trail wasn't gnarly technical, but for those taking notes, some parts were thin, rocky and not very runnable. Saw one hiker and dog going up and that would be the last person I would see for several hours. Ran by Goldmyer Hot Springs and felt like I was making good progress. Then I came to the bridge over the river to the closed road (to Dutch Miller gap TH). In planning I had debated crossing at this point since I wasn't sure there was another bridge further up the river. I had been to these parts before but had avoided the upstream trail since people had said it was overgrown and not used often. Feeling the spirit of the trail (and heading Eric's advice to try to stay on trail) I headed up the trail instead of crossing the bridge. A nice 20 minute stroll later I was crossing a great bridge which led up to the road, just a few hundred yards short of the Dutch Miller trailhead. I was very happy I had stuck to the trail.
I have run/hiked the Dutch Miller gap trail before and always love going there. Not because the trail is particularly scenic, although the upper sections certainly are, but because it is wild and relatively free of people. Since the road closure several years ago I don't think I have ever seen anyone up there. It is too far for many, but just right for me. By the time I got to the meadows I was certainly starting to feel the heat and realizing I was a little behind my predicted schedule. Broeck later told me the temps had been in the 90's. And then I found snow and the first bit of route-finding through avalanche debris. Since I had been up there before I don't think I lost too much time finding/loosing the route but the risk of falling through several sketchy snow bridges was weighing a bit on my mind. I crossed over Dutch Miller gap and started down toward Lake Ivanhoe. I had been there before and remembered that there are some steep sections and 'water hazards'. The trail and running water like to share the route so I was a little concerned about the route-finding. Here, the water crossings were do-able but then I found some steep snow/ice fields to cross. I could have of course tried the eastern side of the lake, but once I started on the west, there was no going back. So I likely wasted quite a bit of energy and about a half-hour doing some 3rd class scrambling, bushwacking (bush-handholds) and ice-climbing with fingers instead of an ice axe (No traction devices / ice axe). Fortunately I did not slide into the frigid lake and eventually was running down toward the Waptus Lake valley.
Due to the timing of my run there was plenty of water for drinking, and I took full advantage, but in retrospect I was certainly a bit dehydrated by this point. Suffice it to say that my progress up to Deep Lake was a little slow and if I remember correctly, I got there around 5 or 6 pm. Couldn't stop for long to enjoy the awesome view due to swarms of mosquitos, but it was spectacular. Passed a couple people headed down valley toward Waptus Lake I presume. Eventually I made the pass near Cathedral Rock where I attempted in vain to get a cell signal. By then I knew I would be really late getting to meet up with Broeck. No luck as expected. So I dropped down to the Cle Elum river valley wishing that I had just asked Broeck to meet there for dinner, camping and re-consideration of the plan. By now my feet were puckered from all the stream crossings and a few big blisters had formed. So the run down was fun!
Made it to the Tucquela Meadow Trailhead at 8PM. Walked over to the Hyas Lake trailhead and met a few hikers who had just finished their hike and were drinking some warm brews. Fortunately, they were willing to provide a ride back to Cle Elum. With the transportation out of the mountains sorted it really wasn't that hard of a decision to leave and try again some other day. I know from previous journeys over Paddy-Go-Easy Pass and into the French and Meadow Creek valleys that the next section would be a challenge which I wasn't willing to accept on that day at that time. There likely would have been significant snow cover going up to Windy Pass, I had never done that section of trail and the combination of factors may have required waiting for light to make the pass. Plus I would have likely met up with Broeck at least 8 hours late which would put her in a leave or wait predicament. So I bailed.
After receiving a ride into Cle Elum I spent a couple of hours walking through town and eventually found the last open motel bed. The room only had cold water for the shower, but I was grateful nonetheless. Very early the next morning I was finally able to contact Broeck who had been without cell coverage. She very graciously drove from Leavenworth and picked me up.
I hope to complete the route someday, although for now it is on the back-burner. I want to complete it running through the Enchantments at night and finishing in the morning so I can get breakfast in Leavenworth! Maybe next time it will be completed with friends.
